COSMIC BIKES GUIDES
COMPLETE WINTER LAYERING GUIDE
IN THIS GUIDE
Base Layers. The base layer is the foundation of your layering system, and it definitely pays to have the best you can afford. They are essential in moving moisture away from your body.
Mid-Layers For Temperature Control. The meat and potatoes of your temperature regulation system, as these are the layers you will take off or put on as you warm up or cool down.
Foul Weather Gear. This layer will protect you from wind and moisture from the outside, and also vent any trapped moisture out.
Extremities. Cold weather protection for your head & face, hands and feet.
Low Cost Alternatives. The lowdown on what you can get by on cheaply, and what is worth paying full price for.
Quickly jump to any section of the guide by clicking the links above.
Introduction
Successful winter layering involves giving some thought to where you’re going, what you’re doing, how active you're going to be, and how the weather may change. This makes it sound like there's a magic formula from which you may deviate only at great peril. But in fact, the whole idea of layering is the answer to the uncertainties of life in general and weather in particular.
There have been many seasons when when we were biking to work almost daily through three decades’ worth of Chicago winters. But although we've developed a number of strategies over our many years of biking, this is still a work in progress. Every winter throws something new our way, our needs and tolerance change as we get older, and clothing manufacturers are always coming up with new and better inventions (though old-fashioned wool is hard to beat).
The advice in this guide applies to going outdoors in winter to pursue moderately vigorous activities. let's establish what we mean by "moderately vigorous": any activity that will cause you to exert yourself enough to huff and puff, but retain the ability to hold a conversation. This includes biking, hiking, and spirited walking. Running and cross country skiing fall under "very vigorous", while strolling to Starbucks or standing around while your dog sniffs the fire hydrant are not vigorous at all.
In this guide I share some of the things that have worked for us, and you’ll find it’s a combination of specialty technical gear that’s worth paying full price for, and items you may already have hanging around your closet or can find at thrift stores with a little effort.
But everyone’s different, so while I’d encourage you to use our findings as a starting point, be prepared to tweak and modify to suit your needs. There is no magic bullet for dressing for cold weather. Just like a good exercise program, it requires a solid strategy that starts with your core. There’s one rule I live by for cold-weather cycling:
“You will not succeed in keeping extremities warm if your trunk and legs are not comfortable.”
So, while most people immediately want a solution for their frozen toes in winter, the complete answer has to involve a system to keep your whole body appropriately comfortable for your level of activity and the time spent outdoors.
Biking in dry weather down to about 20°F is doable with cold-weather items you probably already own, plus a few key technical pieces. However, precipitation, and/or temps that dip lower than that, make purpose-made technical gear an investment that will keep you riding safely through all but the worst that Chicago winter can throw at you.
Biking, like walking and running, can be a year-round activity. But your enjoyment of outdoor life in winter will only be as good as your outdoor clothing. And the foundation of a great cold-season outdoor wardrobe is the base layer that comes in direct contact with your skin.
Function of the Base Layer in Your Winter Wardrobe
You may not perspire while you're waiting for the bus on a frosty winter morning. But if you ride your bike to work, or engage in any other moderately vigorous activity --no matter how cold it is outside-- you will perspire. The function of the base layer it to grab the moisture your body generates, and wick it away from your body as efficiently as possible, in order to prevent pockets of moisture from forming next to your skin, where they could become cold, damp, and --in extreme conditions-- even dangerous.
This is why traditional cotton long-johns are not suitable for any activity that will cause you to perspire. Cotton will soak up moisture like a sponge and hold it right next to your body, which —during prolonged outdoor activity— will make you uncomfortably clammy and cold.
Merino Wool as Base Layer
You will be hard pressed to beat Merino wool base layers for comfort and performance. It is a fine fabric with a silky hand, which feels smooth and comfortable against the skin. It's hard to believe it provides such fierce protection from the elements. But it really is as good as winter protection gets: Merino wool wicks moisture and breathes well, so it helps to regulate temperature. It is also naturally antimicrobial, so --unlike many synthetics— it's really, really good at resisting odors. It will help keep you comfortable from the moment you head out into the cold, and throughout your activity, as your body gradually warms up.
If you're concerned about the ethical implications of wearing wool, it may help to learn that the best suppliers source their superfine fibers from humane-certified farmers in Australia and New Zealand.
If you’re looking to build up or upgrade your winter wardrobe, look for tops with generous length to stay nicely tucked in, preventing any unpleasant drafts. Personally, I prefer the crew-neck over the turtleneck style for better cooling in less extreme conditions. Zip-neck option is a good alternative for temp regulation, with only minimally more bulk than a crew neck. Many Merino base layer tops feature thumb-loops that help the garment stay put undet your mid-layers, and keep your wrists warm and draft-free.
If the weather is fierce enough to call for long-johns, you can also find trim-fitting Merino wool leggings in men’s and women’s styles for layering under your biking pants or tights.
Merino layers are available in a number of weights, or thicknesses. For more vigorous activities (biking, as well as running or xc skiing) I would recommend lightweight base layers. However, if you run cold, (or —for that matter— if you have no intention of exerting yourself physically and just want some cozy layers for lounging around the house) you may find mid-weight wool more comfortable.
If you are concerned about the feel of wool against your skin, since regular wool can be uncomfortably itchy, particularly when you transition from the cold into a heated, bone-dry air inside. But the fibers in Merino wool are smoother, and most people don’t find them irritating at all. It’s also hypoallergenic, so it’s unlikely to cause any reaction even in sensitive individuals.
Merino also has a very refined, elegant look, and a solid-colored base layer top can easily hold its own as a nice piece of clothing worn alone or under a jacket even if you’re just going out to dinner, amking the somewhat higher price of a nice Merino garment a little easier to swallow.
BASE LAYERS
The function of the mid-layer is to provide insulation and retain body heat. Unlike base layers, mid-layers typically feature a bit of loft, or air pockets that act kind of like a double wall in a thermal flask: they maintain the temperature inside.
If you’re new to cold-weather hiking, biking and camping, there's going to be a bit of trial and error as you figure out your most effective layering system. While there are a few rules (no cotton!) there’s no one ideal way to layer. The whole point of layering is to mix and match items in such a way as to have the ability to adjust as circumstances (your level of activity, outside temperature, cloud cover, precipitation, etc) change. The mid-layer is where you're most free to experiment.
It may seem somewhat counterintuitive, but when setting off for moderately vigorous activity on a cold morning, you should start cold. If you’re comfortably warm when you hit the trail, once you get moving --and perspiring-- you will overheat at once. If you intend to move, start with fewer or lighter layers than you think you’ll need. If you’re out for more than a few hours, you’ll need to be prepared in case the weather changes, or if you get fatigued and slow your level of activity. So, if the temperature is mild when you set out, you may be packing —rather than wearing— your mid layer.
When selecting the garments for your insulating mid layering, you can choose from several natural or synthetic options. In general, thicker, loftier and puffier items offer more warmth.
For the top, you will want to choose something lofty, such as fleece, down or synthetic puffy jackets, or wool.
For the bottom, rather than going for anything puffy that might restrict movement, you'll want to trap air between your base and mid layer, so you'll want to wear somewhat loose and weather-resistant hiking pants (or similar) over a base layer.
Below are some examples of garments made from various materials that I have used on various microadventures.
Synthetic fleece
Available in lightweight, midweight and heavyweight fabrics (sometimes desginated as 100, 200 and 300 weight), fleece retains warmth even when damp, and it dries fast. Fleece also breathes well, so you’re less likely to overheat in it. Because of this, it does not offer much by way of wind resistance (except for wind fleece, which is backed with an inner wind-blocking membrane). With regular fleece, you'll want to wear an outer shell for wind resistance.
Although it does work well as an insulating layer, personally I am not a huge fan of fuzzy fleece. It's OK on it's own as a warm outer piece in mild weather. However, as a mid-layer, I find it to bulky and binding when sandwiched between the base and outer layers.
Puffy insulated jackets
Down jackets pack super small, and provide more warmth for the weight than any other insulating material. The efficiency of down is measured in fill power—from 450 to 900. The shell of a down jacket usually provides some wind resistance. The big drawback is that down loses insulating efficiency when damp. Therefore, it's a much better choice for very cold and dry weather, and lower aerobic output activities that will not cause you to perspire excessively. It's also great for sleeping outside in winter.
Synthetic jackets with insulation that mimic down’s efficiency are getting better all the time. Though they don't compress as small as down, they're better at providing warmth when damp. Like the down counterparts, synthetic insulated jackets feature shell material that is wind-resistant.
Wool
While Merino wool is touted as the best choice for the baselayer, i’s not always included in reviews as a viable mid layer option. This is puzzling, because in my opinion, it's hard to beat a wool sweater as a layering piece. True, premium wool mid-layers can be very pricey, and some wool garments may be somewhat heavier when directly compared to high tech fleece or down jackets. But here's why I love wool as a mid-layer:
Quality Merino wool garments are low bulk and non binding. For me, this makes them the most comfortable option when wearing multiple layers. While top of the line Merino outerwear may be expensive, there's nothing wrong with wearing a trim pure wool crewneck or turtleneck sweater as part of your winter wardrobe. Though they may not be heirloom quality, serviceable, lightweight wool sweaters are quite easy to find at thrift shops for a fraction of the cost of technical garments.
Plus, wool looks great. While slouchy fleece can look rumpled when you remove your outer shell, wool retains its classic good looks
Vests
A vest in any of the above materials is my hands-down favorite mid-layer piece. It will keep your core toasty warm while allowing for far greater range of movement than any long-sleeved garment. Plus, it can easily be added to augment whatevee mid-layer you already have on in case conditions turn colder.
Bottoms
For bottoms, durable and weather resistant pants are the go-to mid layer. Wind-resistant biking or hiking pants loose enough to comfortably fit over a pair of base layer tights are probably enough without an additional layer in all but the most extreme conditions. A waterproof/brethable layer may be worn over them in foul weather (see below).
WINTER MID-LAYERS
WEATHER-DEFYING OUTER LAYERS
To top off your carefully assembled lasagna of cold weather layers, you need something that will keep you from getting soaked by rain, sleet or melting snow, and yet will help vent moisture you will inevitably accumulate inside your protective cocoon as you ride.
Enter the magic of waterproof breathable fabrics. The best of the best utilize a 3-layer fabric, which consists of a nylon or polyester face fabric, a waterproof membrane bonded to it, and a lightweight backing fabric attached inside. These layers are meant to work in concert to allow moisture to escape from inside the jacket, while keeping ambient moisture out.
Anyone who has ever ridden extensively in wet conditions will tell you that the theory sounds better than the practice, and I have yet to encounter a waterproof breathable jacket that works perfectly, especially after repeated use and exposure to road salt. However, there’s no question that you will hugely benefit from well-designed outerwear made from technical materials over a PVC coated suit that will turn you into a two-wheeled sauna. And anything in between is not likely to guarantee any degree of dry.
Selecting the right outerwear is made more difficult by the fact that the best stuff carries a hefty price tag, with jackets commanding prices of a few hundred dollars, and bottoms not much less.
Therefore, before you decide, it pays to carefully consider the reality of your commute, and whether a waterproof garment is really essential for what you plan to do. Then, proceed in one of two ways:
If you plan to bike regardless of precipitation, invest in the best bike-specific waterproof breathable outer layer you can afford, but be prepared to accept some shortcomings from whatever the marketing literature tells you.
If you plan to bike primarily in dry weather, top your inner layers with a good quality wind and water resistant shell, and carry a less expensive emergency waterproof layer for occasions when you may be surprised by weather change.
All-Weather Commuter
If you are a dedicated cyclist, you’ll be wise to choose top of the line, bike-specific garments for your all-weather commute. A jacket will have features optimized for cycling, such as a shorter front but longer tail and longer sleeves to reflect a typical riding position and prevent gaps and drafts, vents for temperature regulation also placed with riding position in mind, and sometimes a hood that is designed to work with a helmet. Bike-specific bottoms might have a reinforced seat area to prevent excessive wear from chafing against the saddle, roomier thigh and articulated knee for freedom of movement, and the ability to cinch down the ankle and keep the garment from coming in contact with the bike’s drivetrain.
Choose the best quality name-brand fabric items you can afford (Gore-Tex, Avent, etc.), and, if at all possible, aim for garments that are man or woman specific to get the best fit for your body type. This will minimize bunching, rubbing or stretching of the fabric, which might limit your range of motion and comfort, but also might affect the integrity of the waterproof membrane. By the same token, be sure to strictly adhere to washing and care instructions on the label to make sure you don’t accidentally shorten the lifespan of your premium foul-weather garments.
JUST IN CASE WATERPROOF LAYERS
Those who bike primarily in dry winter conditions can probably get away with a decent and less expensive emergency waterproof layer, since these garments will be used infrequently. However, if you’ve got a lengthy commute, you still want something a few notches above a Hefty bag.
For your emergency waterproof layers, consider garments that are on a slightly lower tier of of what the clothing manufacturers have to offer. You will likely find far less expensive options that still have some sort of waterproof/breathable membrane (though maybe not a name-brand), and features such as zippered front vents, a vented rear flap, or detachable hood. You can also opt for general outerwear from all-purpose brands (eb. Columbia, LLBean, etc) that’s a little more roomy to accommodate bulkier mid-layers. Any of these options would likely save you $200-300 or more over a premium, bike-specific top and bottom set.
PROTECTING YOUR EXTREMITIES IN WINTER
It bears repeating that you will not succeed in keeping extremities warm if your trunk and legs are not comfortable. It is also true, that under certain weather conditions, keeping your extremities warm will be nearly impossible. But take heart! Although extreme conditions can and do occur, they usually do not persist throughout the entire winter season, and a carefully thought out arsenal of winter accessories will have you riding comfortably on most average winter days.
I hope you use this guide as a starting point to assemble your own collection of winter gear. Let’s cover the accessories from top to bottom:
Head, Face & Neck
Headband. For wearing alone in milder weather, or for layering in frigid condition, you can’t go wrong with a basic microfleece or Merino wool headband thin enough to easily fit under your helmet. This is such an essential piece that I recommend having several around for keeping in your pocket, bike bag, car, etc. to have handy when needed. Headbands do fit differently, and you may have to experiment to find a fit that suits you.
Neck tube or gaiter. Similarly useful, and worth having in multiples, is a neck gaiter. These are available in a variety of weights and fabrics, ranging from thin synthetics or Merino wool, to thicker, fleece lined options. The thinner ones are especially versatile for temperature regulation, since they are stretchy, soft, and can be worn as a neck warmer, headband, hat, a layering balaclava (see below), or even as a festive accessory to any outfit as soon as temperatures begin to dip.
Balaclava. This offers one-piece coverage for head and neck, eliminating chilly drafts, in a low-profile design that fits under most helmets. For milder conditions or layering, choose a thinner one with a bit of spandex blended in to give it a nice, snug fit. For more extreme conditions, and for wearing alone, you can get a beefed up fleece or Merino blend base fabric combined with a windproof water-resistant panel to protect the head and face. For truly frigid conditions, some balaclavas have a built-in moveable or ventilated panel to pull over yout mouth, nose and cheeks.
Goggles. Mountain biking or ski goggles are an essential component of winter biking arsenal when temps start to fall below the 20’s. A basic clear or yellow lens snow goggle that resists fogging, offers good peripheral vision and has a comfortable fit is a good choice for most urban winter biking without breaking the bank.
HANDS
Gloves. Glove selection takes a little bit of experimentation, and keeping hands warm is definitely harder for some of us than others. How warm your hands will be depends not only on the actual temperature, but how warm the rest of your body is, whether you’re heading into the wind, and whether there’s anything wet or melting falling from the sky. In winter, it can’t hurt to go with waterproof gloves just in case.
For transitional seasons when temperatures hover around the freezing mark, gloves with a layer of Thinsulate encased in a windproof shell might be all you need. For the dead of winter, you’ll need premium insulation with a water-resistant or waterproof construction, and you may consider non-traditional glove designs. Unfortunately mittens don’t give you enough dexterity to operate the controls on a bike, but variations on “lobster gloves” (which keep fingers together in pairs) can help keep your fingers a little warmer, and still preserve the ability to operate the brakes and gears.
Virtually every winter glove I have tried will retain a bit of moisture from perspiration. Unless you have a place and the time to thoroughly dry your gloves before your return trip, I strongly recommend carrying a second pair, or you may be riding home with wet and frigid hands. Yes, good gloves are very expensive, but you will be glad you made the investment.
Poagies. Anyone riding at temperatures below freezing should take a serious look at handlebar covers or poagies. They are a fantastic option for keeping your hands warm, dry and out of wind’s way. They are giant waterproof mitts, made from Neoprene or a similar waterproof synthetic, that live on your handlebars, right over the brake and shift levers. A large opening allows you to easily slip your hands in and out without trapping them. You can get away with a considerably thinner glove, and maintain good dexterity in challenging conditions. Poagies can be made to fit on almost any handlebar style, and they also work well with non-traditional bikes such as folding bikes, kids’ tagalongs, and even strollers.
FEET
No question, feet are the hardest part of the body to keep warm in winter. They don’t move much when you ride, so it’s hard to keep circulation flowing. They are very exposed to the wind and slush, and lose heat by being in contact with the cold pedals. Invest in the best pair of waterproof boots you can find, and get them a half to full size larger than normal to accommodate extra socks, air space to trap the heat, and maintain toe movement. (I know people who swear by genuine full shearling lined boots —think Uggs. I have not tired it personally, but it may be worth it to conduct your own experiments.)
To prevent water or slush from entering over the tops of your boots, zip your outer pant layer over the boots, or use gaiters.
Underneath all this, excellent quality socks are essential. I own more than a dozen Merino wool socks in various weights. For winter conditions, thicker cushioned socks offer more loft, and therefore better insulation. You can create a double layer with a thinner sock against the skin, and a thicker one outside. I’d suggest getting the outer sock in a slightly larger size in order to create a bit of an air gap between the layers. This only works if you’ve gotten your boots a size larger, in which case you should have no trouble fitting everything comfortably inside. You should be able to wiggle your toes, which is essential to help maintain circulation.
An interesting option for extra sloppy conditions is waterproof socks, which feel like normal socks, but protect your feet like booties. They feature a wear-resistant knit exterior, a waterproof breathable membrane, and some have Merino blend anti-bacterial lining. Some of our staff swear by them even after a few seasons of use. Though they are expensive, they’re definitely worth a try on days where you have to throw everything you’ve got at the weather.
Waterproof shoe covers can be worn over your footwear not just to provide a water barrier, but also to create an additional barrier to trap a layer of air.
LOW COST COLD WEATHER SUBSTITUTES
I spent some time combing through thrift store racks to see if you could assemble a decent winter bike commuting wardrobe with thrift shop finds.
Over the years, I've used a lot of stuff from thrift shops as my cycling gear. Not specialty gear. That stuff rarely goes on sale, and almost never gets donated. It's so pricey, that if you buy it new and it doesn't work, you return it to the place of purchase right away to get your money back. And if it does work, boy, you hold on to it, cherish it, and get every last red cent of use out of it, and when it finally starts to fall apart, you see if you can stretch it for one more season, and then build it a ceremonial funeral pyre.
I certainly have some stuff that will be going on the funeral pyre at some, hopefully very distant, point in the future, especially since many of those items are no longer in production, and it would definitely take some research to find comparable replacements. Great stuff is worth the money, there is no cheap substitute, and you’d be wasting your time trying to find it used.
So, back to the thrift store racks. Can I find equivalents, or at least adequate substitutes, for some of the cold weather gear?
DEFINITELY WORTH TRYING
Wool Socks. Yes, there are some funky thrift store socks out there. But there were also a bunch of Colombia and Wigwam wool blend socks for a buck or two on half-off day! They were actually in decent shape. I’d say if you can find them, just wash them and see what happens.
Gloves. No high-tech gloves, but you can usually find pairs of very warm looking ski mittens (at about $5 they are certainly worth the risk), and in the past, I have found a terrific pair of fully winterized leather motorcycle/snowmobile gloves. But you gotta look.
Merino Wool Tops. Surprisingly, thrift stores often have fine-gauge merino wool crewnecks and turtlenecks, both in women's and men's department. They are not technical garments, but can work as decent, low bulk, warm cycling layers. Check the label. The best ones are pure merino wool, but sometimes a blend is OK. Go for the thin ones, and look carefully for ones without moth holes, as they will only get bigger.
Mid-Layer Tops. For layering, head over to the vest rack, and see if you can find a fleece or tightly knit wool vest. In the activewear department, you can usually find pullover or zip-front synthetic fleece tops. For a few bucks apiece, these make serviceable layers for your torso. Keeping your torso warm helps to warm the extremities.
Bottom Layers. Thrift stores will often have some selection of stretchy fleece pants. If you find some that are in good shape and not too bulky, you can turn them into an insulating layer by pairing them with the next item.
Wind Pants. Resale shops can be a veritable treasure trove of thin nylon over-pants. Take your pick, though you may have to choose from some pretty arresting colors. That might be a good thing when you're on a bike. Note that these are generally not waterproof, but can be used as an emergency wind-cutting garment. Choose ones that are light-weight and unlined.
FORGET IT
Base-Layer Tights. Most of the ones I found are cotton, and that’s the last thing you want next to the skin when you’re perspiring on a cold day. It’s worth getting the real thing (see above)
Windfront Tights. Nothing like that here. Any tights they have are pretty worn and threadbare. For cold but relatively dry weather, I recommend quality technical tights.
Head Coverings. You can find great hats, but generally, thrift shop choices are way too bulky for use with a helmet. Brand new headbands and balaclavas are widely available for $20-50, and would be a much better choice for protecting your head while biking in winter conditions..
Technical Jackets. No way. You may find a light-weight windproof top, similar to the pants described above, for under ten bucks. But if you want a warm, water resistant layer, go for the real thing.
That's it for my bargain tips. You may have to experiment a bit to find out what works, but at thrift shop prices, you can afford a little trial-and error.
You know that truism that claims there’s no bad weather, only inadequate clothing? Well, having lived in Chicago all of my adult life, I’m here to tell you that there definitely is bad weather, which makes the need for adequate clothing only more urgent. You can’t choose your weather, but hopefully, you can make your bike commute tolerable with good outerwear choices that are well-paired to your needs.